Should you take isolated photos?  The short answer is yes.  Should you only take isolated photos?  That is up to you, and what you want to do.  Every photographer should know how to take an isolated photo.  There are many lighting principles that are more evident when you are trying to get a background all black or all white.  The only way to learn how to take isolated photos and the lighting principles involved is to actually get out and do it. So for this reason my opinion is that every photographer should take isolated photos.  Once you get the lighting principles down, whether or not you stick with isolated photos is up to you.  Many stock photographers specialize in isolated photos, but the secret for successful photos is consistency.  Consistency in your photography will lead to consistency in editing, which then leads to better pictures in less time.

Now for some isolated photos… the first one is a common isolated on white photo

herlitz_pbs via flickr

Now for a sample of a photo isolated using a black background…

That’s all for today, in the next couple weeks we will look at some ways to take isolated photos.

1. Use Clean Backgrounds:  What I mean by that is your background needs to be free of distractions that catches the viewers eye.  Pure white backgrounds are popular, but other options such as pure black or mottled may be more appropriate. 

2. Keep Subjects Within the Frame: For shots of characters or portraits, try to keep the subjects within the frame at least from left and right. Often photographers get excited about cropping them tighter to make the picture look better. This may be fine for normal portrait work, but it would generally be a mistake for stock photography. This is because the buyer will then have not much choice to crop it the way he/she wants. For example if you have photo with your subject in the frame cropped from right hand side, then generally the best print layout with that photograph will be right aligned. This might be a disadvantage for you. So leave both edges clean for alignment options to remain open. You can definitely explore all other compositions after you have got your basic shots with a high resell value.

3. Shoot Subjects with Resale Value: If you are starting out, try and shoot subjects that can be resold time and again. Photos that can be used well for a wide range of advertising campaign needs. Not necessary though, but subjects like smiling faces, fitness, business, children, teenagers, expressions are a few of the topics which sell for a variety of advertising concepts. You dont have to follow this as a strict rule, but it can help you sell your photos right from the start. Later on, you may shoot just subjects close to your heart.

4. Shoot Various Compositions at a Time: This is something that was talked about in some length in our post about shooting vertical and horizontal photos

5. Use Different Props for Same Setup: If you are shooting with characters, try and arrange for various props beforehand, that you can easily shoot with the same character and using the same setup. This again will save you enormous amount of time and you can churn out various concepts in one photography session itself.

6. Shoot Various Expressions and Concepts at a time: While shooting with people and faces, always try to shoot various expressions of the same person within the same frame. Suppose you are shooting a model smiling at the camera, make him/her frown, scratch, show anger, love, get ecstatic, scream, shout, sulk and anything you can think of. Your imagination is the only limit.

7. Avoid Brand Names: Never let any brandname or an existing brand identity show up in a photograph ever. It will simply get rejected. It often happens even due to carelessness. E.g., if you are shooting stock photos of an young girl sporting a watch and a t shirt, even a little exposure of the label or the brands in the photo may make it get it rejected. So avoid revealing existing brand names, logos for sure, or be prepared to spend a lot of time in photoshop.

8. Research before you shoot: Making money online with stock photos is all about recurral income. Hence, choose your subject wisely. Do some research, before you start shooting.

9. Make your photos look special: Specially, if you are shooting outdoor photographs, try to make your snaps interesting. Try to consciously look at your subjects from different angles or capture a moment, dynamics that an amateur photographer wouldn’t think of. Make your picture look special. Remember this will help your photos getting approved and beat the competition as well.

10. Shoot Your Highest Resolution: Last but the not the least, shoot the highest resolution possible with the  camera you have. I will definitely suggest you to invest in a professional camera. But whatever you have, it doesn’t matter as long as you deliver quality stock pictures.  The last thing you want to do after a shoot is sulk over ruined images. It’s usually hard to re-shoot the same mood all over again.

One of my favorite exercises in photography is to go somewhere to take photos and only take one lens with me.  To make it even more challenging I take a prime lens.  Recently however I have been cheating a little bit by taking the Tamron 90mm Macro lens.  For me it is a wonderful lens, however it does have a couple shortcomings, which we will talk about a little later.  But first lets talk about the technical stuff.

The Tamron SP designation is reserved for lenses developed with special emphasis on extraordinary photographic performance. Engineers are free to innovate in an uncommon atmosphere where optical performance comes before price, resulting in lenses that satisfy the demands of discerning photographers.

The SP 90mm F/2.8 Di enjoys enviable DNA from Tamron’s original SP 90mm F/2.8, further refined for the demands of high-resolution digital imaging. Extraordinary 1:1 (life-size) close up capacity, combined with what many consider an ideal portraiture focal length (when used on full-frame DSLR or 35mm SLR cameras) this prime optic was nicknamed “the portrait macro.” Equally at home on APS-C DSLRs, rendering a picture angle equivalent of the 140mm lens on a full-frame DSLR or 35mm SLR camera, photographers appreciate the resulting increase in front element-to-subject distance and close-up photography. In addition, this 135mm-like picture angle is well-suited for environmental portraiture. Extraordinary sharpness, striking contrast and a remarkable absence of distortion combine to produce images of exceptional caliber.

My experience is that the Tamron 90mm Macro lens does have a few drawbacks.

The first drawback is it has a varying aperture.  The closer you focus, the smaller the minimum aperture becomes.  So if you are taking a picture of something twenty feet away, the largest aperture is 2.8 and the smallest is f32.  If your subject is a couple inches away, the largest aperture available is f5.6 and the smallest is f64.  If you are already shooting at f8-f32 you will never notice the shift, however when shooting a macro where you want a tiny aperture, sometimes this drawback becomes an advantage allowing you to shoot at f64.

The second drawback to this lens is as you focus closer the lens grows in length.  So you must be careful when you are close to something and focusing to not let the lens hit the subject, or for the shadow from the lens to enter your photograph.

Now for some good things about the lens.

One of the reasons I chose to purchase this lens over a Nikon or Canon model is the price.  On Adorama the Tamron model was about $140 cheaper than the Canon model and about $500 cheaper than the Nikon model.  Since I shoot Nikon that extra money could mean a lot of other gear for me, like a new tripod or some lights.

The lens is small, light, and sharp.  When I am working as a North Carolina Wedding Photographer I usually carry one body and a camera bag with some extra lenses.  So by adding the Tamron 90mm Macro to my camera bag I did not lose much space, or add a lot of weight.

It makes a great portrait lens.  Most portrait and wedding photographers use a 85mm lens, but by using the Tamron 90mm Macro you can eliminate the need for a 85mm and a seperate macro lens at the same time.

Now for some sample photos…

Massimo Bairati via Flickr

gio casa82 via flickr

Lluis Satorre Gonzalez via Flickr

In conclusion, I recommend the Tamron 90mm Macro if you are looking for a good macro lens.  It is probably not the only lens you will ever need, but it is a good addition to your camera bag.  Below is the link if you would like to view or purchase the lens.

Buy Tamron 90mm Macro here

However if you take some time to look around at your surroundings, similar to what we talked about in Get off the Trail, you may see some opportunities that will make your pictures stand out and give them something unique.  Take for example this photo, it was taken about twenty feet from the first photograph and about 30 minutes later.  I think we both agree this is the better of the two photographs, and it will sell better.  By changing the perspective and bringing some objects into the foreground I made the image more interesting, and more likely to sell.  I also used a longer then normal lens to eliminate some of the grass at the edge or where I was to clean up the image.  By using the 24-70 lens I was able to get pass the grass and other debris near me without getting wet wadding out to a better vantage point.  While this is not something I normally do, it was cold and I really wanted to stay dry.

Using the same location would have made a great setting for a portrait session as well as an interesting landscape photo, but that is another post.  The thing to remember is do not get stuck in the mindset that a certain focal length can only be used for certain uses.  Sometimes a medium zoom like the 24-70 will be appropriate, and sometimes a 14-24 will be more appropriate.  It is all about learning your gear and knowing its limitations and strengths.  That is all for today, please feel free to leave any comments below.

Buy Nikon Lenses

One of the reasons it is so popular is the price. A new copy will cost you around $125, which is a steal when it comes to quality lenses. Often you can pick one up used for less then $100 from a reputable dealer.  For you brave souls who like eBay you can often get one for $50-60.  The reason this lens is so cheap is that it has been around for many years and the machinery and research that went into this lens was paid for years ago.

Now for the technical stuff, courtesy of Nikon.

• Mount Type
  Nikon F-Bayonet
• Focal Length
  50mm
• Maximum Aperture
  f/1.8
• Minimum Aperture
  f/22
• Format
  FX/35mm
• Maximum Angle of View (DX-format)
  31°30′
• Maximum Angle of View (FX-format)
  46°
• Maximum Reproduction Ratio
  0.15x
• Lens Elements
  6
• Lens Groups
  5
• Compatible Format(s)
  FX
  DX
  FX in DX Crop Mode
  35mm Film
• Diaphragm Blades
  7
• Distance Information
  Yes
• Super Integrated Coating
  Yes
• Autofocus
  Yes
• Minimum Focus Distance
  1.5 ft. (0.45m)
• Focus Mode
  Auto
  Manual
• G-type
  Yes
• Filter Size
  52mm
• Accepts Filter Type
  Screw-on
• Dimensions
  (Approx.) 2.5×1.5 in. (Diameter x Length)
  63.5x39mm (Diameter x Length)
• Weight
  (Approx.) 5.5 oz. (155g)

What does all this technical stuff mean?  It pretty much means that it is small, light, and a great all around lens.  Please don’t get me wrong, it will not replace a good telephoto or macro lens, but for the majority of photography this is a good lens to learn and grow with.  Also, since this is a prime lens it will get you used to moving closer or farther away from your subject to zoom, rather than standing still and zooming with your lens which can have some unfavorable results.

Here are some pictures taken with a 50mm 1.8 lens so you can judge for yourself if the lens can take a great picture.

Sean McGrath via Flickr

Richard Melanson via Flickr

Chris Niemann Photography

So if you only have the kit lens that came with the camera, or maybe you have some great lenses but you want to see what a prime lens is all about, don’t be afraid to try out the Nikon 50mm.  We are pretty sure you wont be disappointed.

Buy Nikon 50mm 1.8

Using a tripod whenever possible is usually a good idea for getting the sharpest pictures possible.  Unfortunately using a tripod is not the only thing necessary for pictures to be their sharpest.  There are a couple common reasons that  movement blur is introduced into pictures when using a tripod.

The reason that is hardest to control is movement of the subject while the shutter is open.  Sports photographers will often photograph subjects at 1/500th of a second or faster to minimize motion blur from the players running, but that often requires a very shallow depth of field or a high ISO.  But what about when you need to use a low ISO and a smaller aperture?  As many nature photographers know, sometimes the best thing to do it try again another day.  If you have some control over your subject you may be able to freeze the movement with your flash, but this will require additional equipment then you may have planned on using.

Bumping the tripod is another common reason for the picture ending up blurry.  These are two pictures I took with everything the same, the only difference is I bumped the tripod while the shutter was open during one of the pictures.

When I was taking the picture on the left I bumped the tripod, causing the blur.  They are about one second exposures so in both pictures it is critical to use a tripod and not to bump it.

The third common reason for motion blur when you are shooting with a tripod is pushing the release.  For you readers that was in the military or have done a lot of shooting this is a problem you are probably very familiar with.  Taking a picture  is much like firing a rifle, when it comes to the release.  When you press the button to take a picture you want to do so in a smooth controlled manner.  Stabbing at the button with your finger, or pushing fast will move the camera just enough to create a slight blur many times.  The correct way is to squeeze the shutter release is to be firm, yet controlled.  The way it was described to me is squeeze the release the same way you would squeeze a baby’s hand, gentle and controlled.  Also you only want to be squeezing with the finger touching the release, not your whole hand.

So while tripods are great and should be used for stock photos whenever possible, pictures may still have some motion blur.  Pay attention to these three things though and the number of pictures that are blurry should be much lower.

Buy a Tripod

In the next year I hope to start doing product reviews,where we look at certain products in depth, use them, and show what they are capable of and how they will help you.  I also hope to create a few videos, things like behind the scenes of photo shoots and how to use certain items.  Finally I may get some other photographers from other areas of photography, like weddings or portraits, to write a post or two for us.

1.  Magazines are great sources for ideas, they are in most waiting areas for you to browse. Don’t be afraid to look through magazine’s you would not normally read for fresh ideas.

2. TV/Videos are also good sources for ideas. For me, outdoor shows on the local channel give me a lot of ideas, because like me they are working on a limited budget. I also like watching movies with Scarlet Johansonn, but I usually end up distracted from looking for photo ideas for some reason.

3. Blogs, Forums, and other Websites can also be great sources for ideas. Find a website that is about your photography subject and see what type of pictures they use and what they are talking about.

4. Learning new techniques is a great way come up with new ideas for photos.  Normally do landscapes?  Try doing macro photography.  Always do location shoot?  Try some table top photography to learn what it is like working out of a garage or corner of your room.  Learning new techniques is also a great way to expand your knowledge in the field you normally work in, even if they do not directly relate.

5.  Go do something you enjoy.  Come back a few days later with a fresh set of eyes and you just might be surprised what you see.

Do you have other ways to help you find new ideas?  Leave a comment below, I would love to hear what helps you.

The first thing I recommend, dress warm.  The colder and more miserable you are the more likely you are to make a mistake or cut corners.  Also when you start photographing christmas trees or lights you might find other things to photograph, and it would be a shame to have to cut a photo trip short because you are cold.

The next thing is, you need to use a tripod.  Stock photos cannot have noise, and usually a smaller aperture like f8 is necessary.  So since you will be photographing in low light, with a small aperture, and low ISO the shutter speed is going to be low.  So like we discussed in the post about how to pick a tripod in order to have sharp pictures a tripod is necessary.

Once you get there look at your scene, and decide what is going to be the best angle, background, and if there is going to be anything that will interfere with you taking the photo you want.  Random lights are great at ending up in night pictures, and can be dealt with through Photoshop or by possibly slightly changing your angle or location.  If you are going to fix it later in Photoshop, make a note of where the light is and what photos to remind you later.  This is where carrying a notepad with you is very helpful, you can track things like exposure settings, location, and notes without trying to remember everything.

For the most dramatic scenes, you will want to under expose everything but the lights, and expose only for the lights.  Your camera will try to expose for the background so this is just another example of why shooting in manual mode can be the best choice.  A properly done photo will look great and should earn you some money during the holidays.

One last point is that if you are taking pictures of buildings or homes, a property release (similar to a model release except for property) will probably be necessary to sell the images.